“We’re planning on going to Paris, do you have any tips for us, Yvette?” There is nothing like sharing addresses and recipes at the kitchen table. Our Kitchen Table Friend number 4 is Yvette van Boven author of the beautiful Home Made cookbooks (also available in English and German), co-owner of a charming restaurant in Amsterdam, Aan de Amstel, who lives alternately in Amsterdam and Paris. We love her recipes, and her husband’s pics, and look forward to her new book about baking, which will appear this fall. And we are looking forward to a weekend in Paris, too! Yvette’s list with insider’s tips got way longer than we expected, so we decided to cut the list in half: today she shares her favorite places to eat, drink wine and have coffee. Next week she will reveal the most beautiful markets and shops of Paris.
Au Passage (11e arr.)
“The latest trend in Paris is to create small, inventive plates. I had some exiting food here. The service is good and relaxed; the waiters even joined our table at some point. The people are casual, young, French hipsters. I think this is one of the best places to have dinner that I have been to so far. You’d better make a reservation, because walk-ins are only accepted after 9 pm and the waiting time can be long. If you are not in a hurry, you can wait and drink at the bar.”
1 bis, passage de Saint-Sebastien, 75011 Paris, http://www.restaurant-aupassage.fr, métro: Saint-Sebastien Froissart
Jones (11e arr.)
“This restaurant was Bones until recently. A hot spot, so be sure to reserve a table, or come after 9 pm and wait and drink at the bar. It has become one of my favorite places to eat in Paris. The setting is not at all formal, and the food is great and exiting. Don’t hesitate to ask the sommelier for recommendations: he will pour you some very nice wines! In the front part of this tiny restaurant they also have a small plates menu. You do not have to make reservations here, but be on time, because there aren’t that many seats.”
43, rue Godefroy Caviagnac, 75011 Paris, http://www.bonesparis.com, métro: Voltaire
Septime (11e arr.)
“Another popular restaurant in the hip 11th arrondissement. Make reservations ahead of time! You can also book a table online. The place is closed on Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays.”
80, rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris, http://www.septime-charonne.fr, métro: Charonne
Clamato (11e arr.)
“Next to Septime, you’ll find it’s younger brother Clamato. Mind-blowing food here! They serve small sharing plates, like tapas. Very original little dishes, almost all with fish, and without any blah-blah. You never had fish this good. Odd opening times, so check them out carefully.”
80, rue de Charonne, 75011, Paris, http://www.septime-charonne.fr, métro: Charonne
Le Chateaubriand (11e arr.)
“Freakin’ good food at Le Chateaubriand. It’s almost impossible to get a table here before 9 pm, unless you made a reservation well ahead of time. Walk-ins are accepted after 9 pm. Have the waiters pour you a good glass of wine and wait and watch. Don’t be surprised when they give preferential treatment to hip or well-known Parisians. The kitchen only offers one six-course menu: small portions and everything prepared from scratch (you can let them know if you have allergies or don’t eat meat or fish). Fresh, original, WOW!”
29, Avenue de Parmentier, 75011 Paris, http://www.lechateaubriand.net, métro: Goncourt
Le Dauphin (11e arr.)
“The little brother next door of Le Chateaubriand. A cool space designed by famous Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. Expect the same kind of food as at Le Chateaubriand, only served in smaller portions. If you have to wait for a table, go to the nice little wine bar across the street.”
131, Avenue de Parmentier, 75011 Paris, http://www.restaurantledauphin.net, métro: Goncourt
Le Galopin (10e arr.)
“This is one of my new favorites. The small restaurant only offers one menu with small, unique plates and lots of veggies. A MUST for food lovers! Run by two brothers and with the smallest kitchen you have ever seen (even the dishwasher fits in!).
34, rue Sainte-Marthe, 75010 Paris, http://www.le-galopin.com, métro : Goncourt, Belleville & Colonel Fabien
Vivant Table (10e arr.)
“Quite expensive, but très cool and with extraordinary food! The walls and ceilings of this small restaurant are covered with beautifully restored earthenware tiles. The service is skillful and the waiters know a lot about the wines they serve. Next door you’ll find Vivant Cave, the quicker and simpler version of Vivant Table, but no less good or appetizing.”
43, rue des Petites Ecuries, 75010 Paris, http://vivantparis.com/table/vivant-table, métro : Gare de l’Est, Poissonnière, Grands Boulevards, Strasbourg-Saint-Denis, Bonne Nouvelle, Cadet & Château d’Eau
La Patache & Rotisserie Patache (10e arr.)
“This tiny favorite bar of mine, La Patache, is located in the neighborhood close to the stairs of Canal Saint Martin. Wines are served by the glass. For good bistro food go next door to Rotisserie Patache (the walls here are a copy of the ones they have at the BBQ restaurant Fette Sau in Brooklyn, NY).
60, Rue de Lancry, 75010 Paris, métro: Gare de L’Est, Jacques Bonsergent, Goncourt
Bistro & Cave à Vins Le Verre Vole (10e arr.)
“This very cute little wine bar is located across the street from La Patache. They serve good but simple food. It will pay off to give them a call in advance, otherwise you might not get a table. Very informal and frequented by young, hip people. They also have great wines. There is no wine list, however, so just tell them what you usually drink and they will pick a wine for you. You can even buy a bottle of wine, take it with you and drink it at the Canal Saint Martin.”
67, rue de Lancry, 75010 Paris, http://www.leverrevole.fr/, métro: Gare de L’Est, Jacques Bonsergent, Goncourt
Helmut Newcake (10e arr.)
“Great address for gluten free patisserie.”
36, rue Bichat, 75010 Paris, http://www.helmutnewcake.com, métro: Goncourt & République
Rose Bakery (9e arr.)
“Have an organic, sustainable breakfast or lunch (until late in the afternoon) here. The service can be a little off track, and sometimes you’ll have to wait a while, but the food is good and healthy with lots of greens (you might need that when in Paris). They opened a second Rose Bakery in Le Marais, in a charming little house.”
46, rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris // 30, rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris, métro: Saint-Georges // Filles du Calvaire
Le Comptoir General (10e arr.)
“Just visit this extraordinary African house (a so-called Ghetto Museum) some day. Have a bite or a cup of coffee here, and be amazed by the interior and all the bewildering artifacts on display. I won’t say more about it. Just hop in, there is always something going on. The entrance is situated in a narrow alley, which you could easily overlook, so pay attention!”
80, Quai de Jemappes, 75010, http://www.lecomptoirgeneral.com, métro: Gare de L’Est, Jacques Bonsergent, Goncourt
Le Petit Fer a Cheval (4e arr.)
“This is my favorite place in Le Marais. At this teeny-weeny restaurant I usually have a drink or a cup of coffee at the cute little horseshoe-shaped bar, or I sit in the back for a fine bistro-meal. I would love to have such a cute shaped bar at home. The place burned down a couple of years ago, but has been superbly restored.”
30, rue Vieille du Temple, 75004 Paris, http://www.cafeine.com, métro: Saint´Paul, Hotel de Ville
Bob’s Kitchen (3e arr.)
“Great restaurant for a vegetarian lunch. Bob’s also has a Juice Bar in the 10th arrondissement.”
74 rue des Gravillers, 75003 Paris, http://www.bobsjuicebar.com, métro: Arts et Métiers
La Perle (3e arr.)
“When you in the rue Veille du Temple, you definitely should you go to La Perle. Good address for a morning coffee or an end-of-the-day drink.”
78, rue Vieille duTemple, 75003 Paris, http://cafelaperle.com, métro: Saint´Paul, Hotel de Ville, Saint-Sébastien-Froissart
Yvette has her own Paris to-do list too!
“New in town, good reviews, and thus on my bucket list.”
Wine bar Les Enfants Rouges: http://www.les-enfants-rouges.com.
La Buvette: http://www.ilovebuvette.com in the upcoming Pigalle neighborhood.
Frenchie to Go: http://www.frenchie-restaurant.com.
For your convenience we added a map. Click on the numbers or scroll down. Enjoy eating with Yvette in Paris!
YVETTE VAN BOVEN SHARES HER FAVORITE RESTAURANTS